[Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

[Malibu]

Dan, take a look at this site for some help. You may have to get the gage 
they sell to properly set up the booster pin to M/C piston depth. Or, if you 
have a depth gage, you can set it up that way. CPP has a whole page of brake 
help. The gage below is from their site.

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeTroubleshoot.htm#pedal


Check Booster Pushrod Adjustment
  The pushrod that actuates the master cylinder must be properly adjusted. 
Ideally there should be only slight clearance between the booster pushrod 
and the master cylinder pushrod. Interference will preload the master 
cylinder. When the system is preloaded, it builds pressure each time the 
pedal is pressed. Since the master cylinder is not allowed to fully release 
the pressure from the previous stroke, the system will eventually lock the 
wheels. Too much clearance will cause excessive freeplay in the pedal. In 
almost every case, if you bought your booster and master cylinder from us, 
we pre-adjust the booster pushrod and master cylinder for you so this is not 
a problem.

  To make 100% certain of a properly adjusted booster pushrod for your 
master, we offer a master cylinder depth gauge (PN: CP2003) to determine 
correct pushrod length. The following illustration demonstrates the proper 
usage of this tool. First measure the length that the booster pushrod 
extends past the face of the booster with the "head" of the pin. on the 
tool. Then measure the depth of the master cylinder piston with the other 
end of the pin on the tool. If the pin hits or there is too much space on 
step two, then adjustment is necessary.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dansolomon at msn.com>
To: "Chevelle List" <chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


> Mike,
>
> Pulled it all apart tonight and I suspect the booster and the master 
> cylinder were not a match. I have a deep hole M/C which according to 
> Master Power is for manual applications. The rod is sticking out the same 
> amount from the booster but the actuation rod will not come out of the 
> booster. Possibly pushed too far? I am going to put the original shaft in, 
> drop the booster and see what happens. Will let you know how it turns out.
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Solomon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Mike Holleman" <mholleman at ec.rr.com>
>
> Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 16:55:05
> To:"The Chevelle Mailing List" <chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
>
>
> Dan, The rods are approx. 1" different in length. If you have a short rod, 
> less than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. 
> The only problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch 
> and the booster the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure 
> you fully stroke the M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted 
> does not get fully stroked and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it 
> mounted. Get the little kit at Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded 
> nipples and clear tubes. That way you can see the air is gone.
> Mike
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Daniel
>  Solomon <mailto:dansolomon at msn.com>
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
>
>
>
> Mike,
>
> How will I know if the rod and the M/C match?
> I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was 
> installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what.
>
> Thanks, Dan
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Mike
>    Holleman <mailto:mholleman at ec.rr.com>
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
>
>
> A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long 
> push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your 
> M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench 
> bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should 
> be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the 
> clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for 
> power.
> Mike
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Daniel
>      Solomon <mailto:dansolomon at msn.com>
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
>
>
>
> I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power 
> brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding 
> the power assist.
> Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in 
> the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild.
>
> Thanks, Dan
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Brad Waller <mailto:brad at epage.com>
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing
>        List' <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
>
>
> My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is 
> new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has 
> been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes 
> applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from 
> the adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are 
> always on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure.
>
> Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the 
> booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power 
> master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no 
> booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual 
> master cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get 
> no power from your braking?
>
> Brad Waller (brad at epage.com)
> '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
> '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX
>
>
> ----------------
> From: chevelle-list-bounces at chevelles.net 
> [mailto:chevelle-list-bounces at chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
>
>
>
>
>
> Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for 
> its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I 
> have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. 
> Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am 
> running...
>
> 4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new
> 4 New Brake Cylinders
> New Drum Brake Master Cylinder
> Used GM Power Booster
> Original Proportioning Valve
> All New Lines
> Silicone Brake Fluid
>
> I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did 
> not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and 
> put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the 
> only thing that I changed in the setup.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to 
> drive!
>
> Thanks, Dan
>
> ----------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 
> 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
>
>
> ----------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 
> 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
> 
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: not available
Type: image/gif
Size: 13072 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : http://chevelles.net/pipermail/chevelle-list_chevelles.net/attachments/20071002/04df5d57/attachment.gif