[Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

[dansolomon at msn.com]

Mike,

Pulled it all apart tonight and I suspect the booster and the master cylinder were not a match. I have a deep hole M/C which according to Master Power is for manual applications. The rod is sticking out the same amount from the booster but the actuation rod will not come out of the booster. Possibly pushed too far? I am going to put the original shaft in, drop the booster and see what happens. Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for the help.

Thanks,
Dan Solomon
  

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Holleman" <mholleman at ec.rr.com>

Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 16:55:05 
To:"The Chevelle Mailing List" <chevelle-list at chevelles.net>
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


Dan, The rods are approx. 1" different in length. If you have a short rod, less than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. The only problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch and the booster the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure you fully stroke the M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted does not get fully stroked and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it mounted. Get the little kit at Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded nipples and clear tubes. That way you can see the air is gone. 
Mike 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Daniel 
  Solomon <mailto:dansolomon at msn.com>  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>  
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking 

 
 
Mike, 
  
How will I know if the rod and the M/C match? 
I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what. 
  
Thanks, Dan 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Mike 
    Holleman <mailto:mholleman at ec.rr.com>  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>  
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking 

 
A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power. 
Mike   
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Daniel 
      Solomon <mailto:dansolomon at msn.com>  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>  
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking 

 
 
I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist. 
Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild. 
  
Thanks, Dan 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Brad Waller <mailto:brad at epage.com>  
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing 
        List' <mailto:chevelle-list at chevelles.net>  
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking 

 
My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad.  Even though it is new, it could be.  Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal?  It has been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked.  That was from the adjustement bein off the other direction.  Too tight and the brakes are always on!  Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure. 
  
Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power master?  I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master cylinder.  If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power from your braking? 
 
Brad Waller (brad at epage.com) 
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX
 
 
----------------
 From: chevelle-list-bounces at chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-bounces at chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

 
 
 
 
Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running...

4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new
4 New Brake Cylinders
New Drum Brake Master Cylinder
Used GM Power Booster
Original Proportioning Valve
All New Lines
Silicone Brake Fluid

I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing that I changed in the setup.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to drive! 
  
Thanks, Dan 
 
----------------
 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
 
 
----------------
 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007 10:20 AM