[Chevelle-list] Differential Question

[Larry Williams]

Thanks All!  My neighbor is headed for a complete disassembly and 
gear/bearing replacement.  The rearend shop located in Burson CA was 
recommended by Street Rods Plus in Lodi CA.

Larry

Dave Corgill wrote:
> At 05:15 PM 5/6/2007, you wrote:
> >
> >Larry, There is a crush collar inside the front housing that sets the
> >pinion/ring gear endplay. By removing the pinion nut that setting has 
> been
> >lost. I am not aware of anyway to get this corrected short of a new 
> crush
> >collar and re torque the nut for proper meshing.  You can only use 
> the crush
> >seal once. Maybe someone else can advise you differently.
> >Mike
>
>
> It can be done, I've done it many times to change the seal, but
> you must do it just like these instructions.
>
> It's
> actually pretty easy if you know how, but a big risk if you don't.  
> Here is
> how to go about it. (read through all steps before you begin)
>
> 1 remove driveshaft from yoke
>
> 2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion 
> and the
> pinion nut. So you         know how they line up.  Turn the pinion by hand
> and check for slop.  You will need to know what it             feels like
> for step 7 and up.
>
> 3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold)
>
> 4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle.  Do not hammer the pinion 
> in!  You
> could damage it or the         bearings.
>
> 5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it apart
> because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance.  Make sure
> you put some oil on the lip for lubrication.
>
> 6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started.
> Some people (mostly who sell         the parts) say you should get a 
> new nut
> because it's a lock nut that works the best only once.  I
> usually reuse the old one.  In either case, make sure you use RED
> threadlocker, not blue, because it's     stronger.
>
> 7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much slop
> (usually only a little bit) there     is in the bearings.  Slowly 
> tighten up
> the nut until you hit the mark you made in step 2.
>
> 8 If there is still slop and no change in the ease of turning, tighten one
> width of the chisel mark past.
>
> 9 If there is still no change, make one full turn back to the mark and one
> chisel mark width past.
>
> repeat step 9 until the slop is gone and it gets harder to turn again like
> it did in step 2.
>
> IMPORTANT!  If you go too far, DO NOT LOOSEN.  If you have gone a lot too
> far, (more than 1/8 turn) you will have to remove the axles, carrier, and
> pinion to replace the crush sleeve.  This should only be done by 
> experienced
> axle people because several measurements must be made to determine the
> rotating torque and nut position, etc.
>
> 10 put the driveshaft back on
>
> It should be fairly easy to tell when you have gone enough turns to 
> take up
> the slop.  It will be cut and dry either slop or no slop.  All the 
> play will
> be taken up in the last 1/16th of a turn on the last revolution of the 
> nut,
> so it is hard to be off by a whole turn.  After you do this once, you will
> get a better feel for it.
>
>  
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